reflections on surf and work
your huddled masses yearning to
get out there
get it wet
feel the water
just don't do it
at a beach
The cliché "live to work, or work to live" has relevance here, assuming an individual has the choice. For billions around the world the only option is "work to survive".
In the privileged West, however, the choice is usually there, though we often complain about the stressful pace of modern life and feel that we have to work harder and longer just to keep our heads above a seemingly ever-rising tide. An ebb never seems to appear. Even slack water can be hard to find.
But we need to keep it up.
Love it or leave it, work is essential to secure life's necessities.
Because we positively need that new car every other year.
We need that new computer, that new mobile phone.
We need to keep the kids well supplied with more and more of whatever it is they crave.
We need to keep up with all the latest fashion trends.
We positively need a new DVD and the latest interactive computer game.
And we absolutely definitely need the internet.
What I really need is to get down to the beach, to get out into the water and paddle through the waves, to sit out the back and watch the horizon or the clouds or flocking sea birds, perhaps a school of baitfish harried by tailor or bonito or whatever else is there, until the right wave comes and I turn and stroke into it and stand and ride to the beach then paddle back out and do it all again.
This is essential to me. It's an entirely personal thing.